Restaurant

New Yet Classic: The Grill Slips into the Legacy of the Four Seasons Nicely

WHO TO BRING: SOMEONE LOOKING FOR NYC GLAM OR HAVE A BUSINESS MEETING HERE TO SEAL THE DEAL

There are those places in NYC that just exude a classic experience: the old-school style of service with a bit of pomp, elegant vintage dishware and accoutrement, and a space with ample room to breathe. Thankfully, the new rendition of the restaurant formerly known as The Four Seasons maintains all of the above.

We stopped into The Grill impromptu, having been at an event nearby and through my good bar karma, promptly scored two chairs at the bar. It was delightful to see the original ceiling sculpture by Richard Lippold’s intact, and livened up a bit for the holidays with holly and berries at the center of the bar. Windows are still adorned with a fluttering waves of tiny beaded chains, and shiny woodwork still surrounds the dining room. Waitstaff in crisp white tuxedo jackets complete the scene.

Oysters were available and we were happy to see them arrive in the perfectly-sized silver server. Also sampled the Goose Terrine with figs and olives which arrived with a couple of slices of a deep-dark brown bread. Cauliflower Piccalilli, a super tart and tangy pickled cauliflower completed the bites, along with a nice bottle of white burgundy, a 2014 Dominique Lafon Bourgogne.

There’s a lovely narrative on the history of the space on the website by Mimi Sheraton which kind of says it all, so do give it a glance before you head over to enjoy your time there.

The Grill, 99 e 52nd St (betw Park/Madison)