As soon as I met him, I could see that Chris Jaeckle was a natural perfectionist. This 6’3”-inch lanky man with soft demeanor puts a scrutinizing eye into everything he does at All’onda—the menu, the space, and the plating. The entire concept has just the right feel of being modern and minimalist, but exudes the essence of being on a luxurious yacht, with ample room to breathe. The high ceilings upstairs are highlighted with vertically-lined wood beams, and the dishes and plating all echo the same simplicity and rustic edge.
Eating at All’onda is a total joy.
The menu at All’onda is Venetian inspired, but there is nothing traditional about the ingredients that appear in some of the dishes. When I asked him for his latest ingredient inspiration, Jaeckle told me: “Kelp/seaweed. It offers so many things—nutrients, oceanic flavor, umami.” As for some plating tips, Jaeckle offers his method. “My process: make versions of the ingredients, maybe a squash puree, dice or several sizes, etc, and then choose the plates. Then I decide which eats the best and then looks the best.” So you can see the thinking behind every dish at All’onda.
At our dinner we gorged on the pastas and small plates. The dishes featured a mixing of unusual flavors, like the stracciatella with seasonal plums, and the deeply delicious chicken liver spread accompanied by pickled cherries and hazelnuts. Bonus: The sommelier made a fantastic wine suggestion, involving a grape I had never heard of. Enjoy this recipe for an intense Arancini, infused with truffle. allondanyc.com
Sadly, this beautiful spot has closed since this post ran. You can still sample his gorgeous fare at Uma Temakeria.
MAKES 25 TO 30 BALLS
FOR the rice:
1/2 onion, diced
20 oz Acquerello rice
2 CUPS white wine
3 CUPS chicken stock
3 CUPS water
4 oz truffle butter
4 oz mascarpone
1 CUP Parmesan, grated
1 CUP canned black truffles, finely chopped
Sweat onion in a rondeau. Add rice and toast until fragrant. Add white wine and reduce, stirring constantly, until all of the liquid has evaporated. In increments, add equal parts chicken stock and water. Continue stirring until the liquid has evaporated and rice is completely cooked. Add truffle butter, mascarpone, Parmesan, truffles. Stir until everything is incorporated. Spread the rice mixture out on a sheet tray lined with parchment and cool in the refrigerator.
FOR THE SAUCE:
1 CUP chicken stock
1 CUP heavy cream
1 CUP grated Parmesan cheese
Combine chicken stock and heavy cream. Reduce by half. Mix in Parmesan cheese.
FOR THE breading:
Prepare a breading setup: a bowl with flour, a bowl with egg mixture and another bowl with breadcrumb mix
2 TB heavy cream
Beat eggs and heavy cream.
4 CUPS plain breadcrumbs
1 TB onion powder
1 TB garlic powder
2 TB cornstarch
2 tsp salt
Mix seasonings into the breadcrumbs.
Roll the cooled rice mixture into 25-30 balls. Dredge each ball in the flour, egg mixture and then breadcrumbs.
Allow the arancini to come to room temperature before frying so the center will be hot when cooked.
Heat oil to 375ºF. Fry arancini in oil until golden brown and hot in the center. Serve with sauce.
[We’ve got more recipes in the shape of a ball in our HAVE A BALL issue.]